Dryer Not Heating? 3 Common Parts to Check Before Calling a Technician
Quick Answer (TL;DR)
If your dryer is running but not heating, the problem is almost always one of three parts: a blown thermal fuse ($8-15), a broken heating element ($25-50), or a faulty igniter for gas dryers ($40-80). I’ve fixed hundreds of these issues, and you can too most repairs take just 30-45 minutes with basic tools.
Save $150-300 on service calls by checking these parts yourself first.
Why Your Dryer Runs But Produces No Heat
After 15 years working with appliance repairs, I’ve seen this exact scenario play out thousands of times: homeowners open their dryer after a full cycle, only to find their clothes still soaking wet. The drum spins perfectly, but there’s zero heat.
Here’s what’s happening: Your dryer’s motor and drum mechanism work independently from the heating system. When the heating circuit fails usually due to a blown fuse or damaged element everything else keeps running normally. That’s why your dryer runs but doesn’t heat.
What This Costs You
- Professional repair: $150-300 (parts + labor)
- DIY repair: $8-80 (parts only)
- Time investment: 30-45 minutes
According to recent industry data, clothes dryers experience heating problems at a rate of 56 issues per 100 units, making this one of the most common appliance failures homeowners face.
Safety First: Before You Start
⚠️ CRITICAL SAFETY STEPS:
- Unplug your dryer from the wall outlet
- Shut off the gas valve (gas dryers only)
- Let the dryer cool for 30 minutes if recently used
- Have proper tools ready: Screwdriver set, multimeter, work gloves
When to call a professional: If you smell gas, see sparks, or aren’t comfortable working with electrical components, stop immediately and contact a licensed technician.
Part #1: Thermal Fuse (Most Common Cause)
What It Is
The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device located on your dryer’s exhaust duct or heating element housing. Think of it as a circuit breaker for heat once it detects temperatures above 220°F, it permanently cuts power to the heating element.
From my experience: I estimate 60-70% of “no heat” issues stem from blown thermal fuses.
Why It Fails
The thermal fuse blows when your dryer overheats, which usually happens because:
- Clogged lint trap or vent (most common)
- Restricted exhaust duct
- Blocked outdoor vent
- Damaged blower wheel
How to Check It
Visual inspection isn’t enough you need a multimeter to test continuity:
- Locate the fuse: Usually on the blower housing or heating element assembly
- Remove wiring connections: Take a photo first for reassembly
- Test with multimeter: Set to Ohms (Ω), touch probes to each terminal
- Reading results:
- 0-1 ohms = Fuse is good
- Infinite/OL = Fuse is blown (needs replacement)
Real Example
Last month, a customer told me their dryer took 3-4 cycles to dry one load. Within a week, it stopped heating entirely. I found their lint trap housing packed solid the thermal fuse had blown protecting the dryer from fire. After replacing the $12 fuse and cleaning the vent, their dryer worked perfectly.
Replacement Parts
Common thermal fuse part numbers (verify for your model):
- Whirlpool/Maytag: 3392519
- Samsung: DC47-00016A
- GE: WE4M519
- LG: 6931EL3003E
Cost: $8-15
Difficulty: Easy
Time: 15-20 minutes
Part #2: Heating Element (Electric Dryers)
What It Is
The heating element is a coiled wire assembly similar to a giant toaster element that generates the hot air to dry your clothes. When electricity flows through it, the coil heats up to 140-160°F.
Why It Fails
Electric dryer heating elements fail from:
- Metal fatigue after years of heating and cooling cycles
- Physical damage from debris in the vent system
- Electrical shorts in the coil
- Normal wear and tear (typical lifespan: 8-12 years)
Unlike thermal fuses, heating elements usually fail gradually. You might notice clothes taking progressively longer to dry before the element breaks completely.
How to Check It
Heating element testing requires a multimeter:
- Access the element: Usually behind the front or rear panel
- Disconnect power and remove wire connections
- Visual check: Look for breaks, holes, or touching coils
- Test resistance: Should read 10-50 ohms (check your model specs)
- Test for shorts: Touch one probe to element terminal, other to metal housing should read infinite
What I See Most Often
On dryers 8+ years old, I frequently find elements with microscopic breaks in the coil. They look fine visually but test as open circuits. On newer models, I see elements damaged by lint accumulation causing hot spots.
Replacement Parts
Popular heating element part numbers:
- Whirlpool: 279838, W10724237
- Samsung: DV218AEB/XAA
- GE: WE11X10021
- Maytag: 35001247
Cost: $25-50
Difficulty: Moderate
Time: 30-45 minutes
Pro tip: When replacing the element, thoroughly clean the vent system to prevent premature failure of the new part.
Part #3: Gas Dryer Igniter
What It Is (Gas Dryers Only)
If you have a gas dryer, the igniter is the glowing device that lights the burner to create heat. It’s a small ceramic component with a coil inside that heats to 2,000°F+ when activated.
Why It Fails
Gas dryer igniters crack or weaken over time from:
- Thermal stress from rapid heating/cooling
- Electrical degradation reducing current flow
- Physical cracks in the ceramic housing
- Age (typical lifespan: 5-8 years)
Key symptom: You’ll hear clicking sounds, smell gas briefly, but see no flame or flames that won’t stay lit.
How to Check It
Igniters need visual and electrical testing:
- Observe during startup: Igniter should glow bright orange within 30-60 seconds
- Check for cracks: Inspect the ceramic body carefully
- Test resistance: Working igniters read 50-400 ohms (varies by model)
- Watch for weak glow: Dim orange/yellow glow indicates failing igniter
Safety Warning
⚠️ If you smell gas for more than 10 seconds without ignition, shut off the gas valve immediately and call a professional. This indicates a serious safety issue.
From the Field
I’ve replaced dozens of gas dryer igniters, and the pattern is consistent: homeowners report the dryer “clicks” repeatedly but never heats. When I test the igniter, it glows dimly or not at all it’s drawing insufficient current to open the gas valve.
Replacement Parts
Common gas igniter part numbers:
- Whirlpool: 279311, 4342528
- Maytag: 12001349
- GE: WE4M181
- Kenmore: 334-3263, C57
Cost: $40-80
Difficulty: Moderate
Time: 25-35 minutes
Diagnostic Flowchart: Find Your Problem Fast
Start here if your dryer runs but doesn’t heat:
Step 1: Check Basics First
- Is the dryer plugged in securely?
- Is the circuit breaker on?
- Gas valve open? (gas dryers)
- Settings on correct heat cycle?
✅ All good? → Continue to Step 2
Step 2: Determine Dryer Type
- Electric dryer → Check thermal fuse, then heating element
- Gas dryer → Check thermal fuse, then igniter
Step 3: Order of Testing
For Electric Dryers:
- Test thermal fuse first (easiest access)
- Clean lint trap and vent thoroughly
- Test heating element if fuse is good
- Check high-limit thermostat (less common)
For Gas Dryers:
- Test thermal fuse first
- Observe igniter glow during cycle
- Check gas valve coils
Test flame sensor
Real Customer Success Stories
Case Study 1: Sarah’s Whirlpool Dryer
Problem: Dryer ran for 90 minutes, clothes still damp
Diagnosis: Blown thermal fuse + clogged vent
Solution: Replaced thermal fuse ($12), cleaned 15 feet of vent
Time: 45 minutes
Savings: $235 vs. service call
Sarah’s feedback: “I was ready to buy a new dryer. This fix cost less than $15 and took under an hour. My dryer works better than it has in years.”
Case Study 2: Mike’s Samsung Gas Dryer
Problem: Clicking sound, gas smell, no heat
Diagnosis: Cracked igniter
Solution: Replaced igniter assembly ($52)
Time: 30 minutes
Savings: $180 vs. service call
Mike’s feedback: “Watching the new igniter glow bright orange was so satisfying. I couldn’t believe how easy this was.”
Maintenance Tips to Prevent Future Problems
Based on 15 years of seeing the same issues repeatedly, here’s what actually works:
Weekly Tasks
- Clean lint trap after every load
- Check behind drum for lint buildup monthly
- Wipe door seal to prevent moisture buildup
Monthly Tasks
- Vacuum lint trap housing with crevice tool
- Inspect vent connection at dryer and wall
- Check outdoor vent cover opens freely
Annual Tasks
- Professional vent cleaning ($100-150, worth every penny)
- Inspect heating element for damage
- Test thermal fuse continuity (while cleaning vent)
- Replace plastic vent hoses with metal (safer, better airflow)
The #1 preventive measure: Clean your entire vent system once a year. This single action prevents 70% of thermal fuse failures and reduces fire risk dramatically.
When to Replace vs. Repair Your Dryer
Follow the 50% rule: If the repair cost exceeds 50% of a new dryer’s price, consider replacing.
Repair Makes Sense When:
- Dryer is less than 8 years old
- Total repair cost under $200
- Only one component has failed
- Frame and drum are in good condition
Consider Replacement When:
- Dryer is 12+ years old
- Multiple components failing
- Repair costs exceed $300-400
- Rust, cracks, or structural damage
- Energy costs justify an upgrade
Industry insight: Modern dryers are 20-30% more energy efficient than models from 2010. Annual savings: $50-100 on energy bills.
Essential Tools and Parts You'll Need
Tools (one-time investment: $50-80)
- Digital multimeter ($20-30)
- Screwdriver set ($15-25)
- Nut driver set ($15-20)
- Work gloves ($5-10)
- Flashlight or headlamp ($10-15)
Where to Buy Quality Replacement Parts
Recommended sources in order of preference:
- Manufacturer-authorized dealers (like AppliancesPartsStore.com)
- Genuine OEM parts
- Exact fit guarantee
- Expert support available
- Manufacturer websites
- Direct from source
- Sometimes more expensive
- Local appliance parts stores
- Immediate availability
- Expert advice in person
Avoid: Generic aftermarket parts from auction sites. I’ve seen too many “compatible” parts fail within weeks or cause additional damage.
Step-by-Step: Replacing a Thermal Fuse
Difficulty: Easy
Time: 20 minutes
Tools needed: Screwdriver, multimeter, ¼” nut driver
Instructions
- Unplug dryer and pull away from wall (get help they’re heavy)
- Remove rear panel (most models)
- Locate screws around perimeter
- Set panel aside carefully
- Locate thermal fuse
- Usually on blower housing (bottom) or heating element housing
- Small cylindrical device with two wire terminals
- Photograph wiring before disconnecting
- Remove fuse
- Pull wire connectors straight off
- Unscrew mounting bracket (if present)
- Test old fuse with multimeter to confirm failure
- Install new fuse
- Must be exact replacement (check part number)
- Secure mounting bracket
- Reconnect wires matching photo
- Reassemble dryer
- Replace rear panel
- Secure all screws
- Test operation
- Plug in dryer
- Run 5-minute cycle
- Verify heat production
Critical reminder: Clean your vent system before running the dryer, or the new fuse will blow again.
Cost Comparison: DIY vs. Professional Repair
Scenario | DIY Cost | Pro Cost | Savings |
Thermal fuse replacement | $8-15 | $150-200 | $135-185 |
Heating element replacement | $25-50 | $200-275 | $175-225 |
Gas igniter replacement | $40-80 | $180-250 | $140-170 |
Multiple parts + vent cleaning | $100-150 | $350-450 | $250-300 |
Average DIY savings: $175-225 per repair
Advanced Troubleshooting: Less Common Causes
If you’ve tested the three main parts and still have no heat, consider these secondary issues:
High-Limit Thermostat
- Cuts power at extreme temperatures (240-250°F)
- Can fail “open” preventing heating
- Test: Should show continuity when cool
- Cost: $15-25
Cycling Thermostat
- Regulates normal operating temperature
- Maintains 140-160°F range
- Failure causes overheating or no heating
- Cost: $20-35
Timer/Control Board (Rare)
- Controls heating cycle duration
- Electronic failure prevents heat activation
- Most expensive repair: $150-300
- Consider replacement if board fails
Gas Valve Coils (Gas Dryers)
- Electromagnetic coils open gas valve
- Igniter can glow but gas won’t flow
- Test: Should measure 1000-1500 ohms
- Cost: $60-90 (often replaced with igniter)
Environmental Impact: Repair vs. Replace
Why repairing matters beyond your wallet:
- Landfill waste: Appliances account for 2 million tons of waste annually in the US
- Manufacturing impact: New dryer production creates 350-500 lbs of CO2
- Resource conservation: Repairing extends product life, reducing demand for raw materials
- Energy efficiency: Modern repairs can improve efficiency of older units
My perspective: After 15 years in this industry, I’ve seen thousands of perfectly repairable dryers needlessly replaced. A $50 part shouldn’t mean disposing of a 300-pound appliance. The environmental cost alone justifies attempting repair first.
Final Thoughts: You Can Fix This
If you’ve read this far, you’re already ahead of most homeowners. The dryer problems we’ve covered thermal fuse, heating element, and igniter account for 90% of “no heat” issues. With basic tools and 30-45 minutes, you can save $150-300 on service calls.
Remember these key points:
- Safety always comes first: Unplug, cool down, and work carefully
- Thermal fuse failures indicate airflow problems: Fix the cause, not just the symptom
- Use genuine OEM parts: Cheap alternatives cost more long-term
- Clean your vent system: This prevents 70% of future problems
- Take photos during disassembly: Makes reassembly foolproof
Still unsure? That’s okay. Not everyone needs to be an appliance technician. If you’re uncomfortable with any step, calling a professional is the smart choice. But now you understand what they’re checking and can discuss repairs intelligently.
For high-quality replacement parts and expert support, visit Appliances Parts Store to get exactly what you need and get your dryer running again today.
Need Replacement Parts?
AppliancesPartsStore.com carries genuine OEM thermal fuses, heating elements, and igniters for all major brands:
- ✅ Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid
- ✅ Samsung, LG, GE
- ✅ Kenmore, Frigidaire, Electrolux
- ✅ Same-day shipping on in-stock items
- ✅ Expert support available
- ✅ Free shipping on orders over $500
Can’t find your part number? Contact our parts specialists with your dryer’s model number, and we’ll identify the exact component you need.
About the Author
Dan Brebenea has spent 15+ years in the appliance repair and parts distribution industry. He’s diagnosed and repaired thousands of dryers, ranges, refrigerators, and washers. Dan specializes in helping homeowners tackle common repairs themselves, saving money while building valuable skills.
Have questions about your specific dryer issue? Drop a comment below, and I’ll personally respond with advice.
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- Complete Appliance Parts Buying Guide
FAQs
Can I use my dryer without a thermal fuse?
Absolutely not. The thermal fuse prevents fires by cutting power during overheating. Operating without it is a serious fire hazard. I’ve seen the aftermath of dryers that ran without thermal fuses extensive fire damage that could have been prevented with a $12 part.
How long do dryer heating elements last?
Typical lifespan is 8-12 years with normal use. Factors affecting longevity include load frequency, vent cleanliness, and voltage stability. I’ve seen elements last 15+ years with excellent maintenance, and fail in 5 years with clogged vents
Why does my dryer thermal fuse keep blowing?
Recurring thermal fuse failures indicate an underlying problem causing overheating:
- Restricted airflow (clogged vent most common)
- Damaged blower wheel
- Failed cycling thermostat
- Blocked lint screen housing
Fix the root cause, not just the symptom. Simply replacing fuses without addressing airflow issues wastes money and time.
Can I test a thermal fuse without a multimeter?
Not reliably. Visual inspection won’t reveal electrical failure. Multimeters cost $15-30 and pay for themselves with one repair. They’re essential for any DIY appliance work.
Should I replace other parts while I have the dryer apart?
Yes, consider these cost-effective preventive replacements:
- Both thermostats if you’re replacing the thermal fuse ($20-30)
- Drum rollers and belt if noisy (every 8-10 years, $40-60)
- Lint seal around drum (if worn, $10-15)
Labor is your biggest investment maximize it by replacing wear items during repairs.
How do I know if my issue is the dryer or the vent?
Disconnect the dryer vent at the back of the machine and run a cycle. If it heats normally, your vent is the problem. If it still doesn’t heat, it’s a dryer component failure.
